Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same

ABSTRACT

A mounting holds a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting. One end of the mounting has arms or extensions to receive the gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from the arms to fit in the grooves of the gemstone, the mounting further comprising a holding configuration for holding the mounting to the setting. Insertion of the mounting into the setting may in one version distort the holding configuration and levers the arms to press harder into the groove.

FIELD AND BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The present invention, in some embodiments thereof, relates to aninvisible setting for diamonds and other precious stones that arefaceted, and methods and tools for effecting such settings.

Invisible settings have been around for many years and have been verysuccessful. The traditional invisible mounting involves fitting aprotrusion of the setting, or mounting medium into a groove pre-formedin the stone. The groove is hidden behind the face of the stone, hencethe face hiding the mounting, which therefore becomes invisible. Thesetting or mounting medium may be the metal body of the ring or otherjewelry item.

A well-known problem with invisible mountings is the ease with which thestone is able to fall out of the mounting. The setting can often changeshape over time. The finger on which the ring is mounted may changeshape over time, or the metal may expand or contract with changes intemperature, so that what began as a tight fit may get looser over timeuntil the stone falls out. Where multiple stones are mounted in a row,if the setting bends in a particular direction all of the stones areliable to fall out.

A further issue with invisible settings is the time and skilled laborrequired to set a stone, or replace a stone after it falls out. A tightfit is required by making a secure mounting at a location that cannot beseen, and the stones themselves are generally quite small. Setting asingle stone typically takes in excess of twenty minutes in the hands ofa skilled setter.

U.S. Pat. No. 6,112,552 teaches an invisible gemstone setting havingchannels into which the grooved gemstones are snapped and secured. Eachchannel is provided with opposing flexible prong members extending fromthe base of the gemstone setting. As the grooved gemstones are snappedinto the channels the prong members flex outwardly as the gemstones arepushed downwards into the channels. The prong members snap intoengagement with the gemstones to securely hold the gemstones within thechannels. When the channels are filled the setting becomes invisible.

Again, the gemstone is more easily mounted but the same problem arisesthat if the setting changes shape, the initially firm grip on thegemstone is liable to be lost.

Current invisible setting technologies allow setting of hard stones intosemi-hard metal mountings, and are practically limited to setting ofdiamonds in gold. Use of softer stones or softer or harder metals resultin breakage of the stone during setting (e.g., when the stone is softand the metal hard) and/or falling off of the stone during use (e.g.,when the metal is soft and readily distorts).

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present embodiments provide a separate mounting for holding thegrooved gemstone, which separate mounting is held within but is not partof the gemstone setting. Thus changes in shape in the setting have nobearing on how firmly the gemstone is held. The jewelry setting nolonger needs to include the protrusion for fitting into the gemstonegroove, as this is now part of the separate mounting. Instead howeverthe setting may incorporate hollows or openings for holding themountings.

According to an aspect of some embodiments of the present inventionthere is provided a mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly toa setting, the mounting having a first end with extensions to receivethe gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from the extensions tofit within respective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, themounting further comprising a holding configuration for lockinglyholding the mounting to the setting.

The holding configuration may be designed to undergo distortion whenfitting into the setting, the distortion lockingly holding therespective mounting to the setting.

In an embodiment, the holding configuration is connected to theextensions to press the protrusions inwardly onto the groove when theholding configuration is distorted against contouring of the setting.

In an embodiment, the mounting is configured to be deformed upon pullinginwardly about contouring on the setting, the deformation being such asto lever the extensions to push the protrusion inwardly into the groove.

In an embodiment, the holding configuration is configured to protrude atleast partially from a base part of the setting, the holdingconfiguration being deformable about the setting by a deformation toolapplied to the second end to catch the mounting into the setting and tolever the protrusions into the groove.

In an embodiment, the holding configuration is configured to protrude atleast partially from a base part of the setting, the holdingconfiguration comprising a breakable portion that deforms the mountingprior to being broken away therefrom, to catch the mounting into thesetting and to lever the protrusions into the groove.

In an embodiment, the breakable portion is designed to be broken offusing a shaped mounting tool.

The holding configuration may include a weakened portion forpreferential deformation when being mounted.

The mounting may simultaneously close over the grooved gemstone anddeform into the setting with a single application of force.

The mounting may include a concave base portion flattenable to providethe deformation.

Flattening may be provided by a breakable portion attached to the baseportion.

Flattening may be provided by a tool inserted via a hole into the baseportion, or the tool may be a threaded tool designed to thread around ascrew end at the base, or the tool may be an insertion tool that forcesthe base to open along a weakening or gap. The mounting extensions maybe resilient.

According to a second aspect of the present embodiments a setting forgemstones may be provided which comprises a plurality of locations forholding respective gemstone mountings, each location being shaped toclose upper protrusions of the mounting into a groove of a groovedgemstone to hold the gemstone to the setting. The closing may beachieved by deforming the respective mounting as it is pressed intoposition in the setting.

In an embodiment, the setting may be contoured to push upper parts ofrespective mountings inwardly to lock onto the groove when the settingis pushed downwardly into the location.

The respective shapes built into the setting may be open at a lower endto allow a deformable or breakable holding portion of the mounting toextend from the lower end for the deformation or breakage causing thedeformation.

The setting may be provided with a tool to carry out the deformation orbreakage causing the deformation.

A protective rim may extend around the outside of the setting. Thematerial of the setting may be a soft metal such as silver or brass.

According to a third aspect of the present invention there is provided amethod of mounting a grooved gemstone to a setting comprising:

providing a setting having a mounting location,

providing a mounting, the mounting having arms and protrusions at adistal end of the arms to fit into grooves of the grooved gemstone,

pressing the mounting into the mounting space, the pressing causingcontouring on the mounting location to press the arms inwardly to lockthe protrusions into the grooves, thereby mounting the gemstone.

The method of the present embodiments may be carried out by a robot arm.

According to a fourth aspect of the present invention there is provideda mounting for invisible placing of a grooved gemstone within a setting,the mounting being separate and distinct from both the setting and thegemstone and having both a setting attachment for attachment to thesetting and a gemstone attachment for attaching a gemstone.

According to a fifth aspect of the present invention there is provided amethod of mounting a flawed gemstone to a setting comprising:

providing a gemstone having grooves and flaws in proximity to thegrooves;

providing a setting having a mounting space,

providing a mounting, the mounting having arms and protrusions at adistal end of the arms to fit into grooves of the grooved gemstone,

pressing the mounting into the mounting space, the pressing causingcontouring on the mounting space to press the arms inwardly to lock theprotrusions into the grooves, thereby mounting the gemstone via inwardpressure on a body of the gemstone and not relying on structuralresilience of the flaws.

The flaw may be an inclusion and typically causes structural weakening.

According to a sixth aspect of the present invention there is provided agemstone cut with grooves dedicated for invisible setting, the gemstonehaving an inclusion causing structural weakening of the gemstone, theinclusion being in close proximity to one of the grooves, the inclusionweakening the gemstone in the close proximity of the grooves, making thegemstone more likely to chip as compared to a gemstone having anotherwise similar, but more centered, inclusion.

According to a seventh aspect of the present invention there is providedan item of jewelry comprising a setting, a plurality of mountings formounting gemstones and a plurality of gemstones mounted on the pluralityof mountings and invisibly mounted on the setting, whereby the settingand the plurality of mountings are made of different materials.

According to an eighth aspect of the present invention there is providedan item of jewelry comprising a setting and a plurality of mountings,each mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to the setting,respective mountings having a first end with extensions to receive arespective gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from theextensions to fit within corresponding mounting grooves of the groovedgemstone, each mounting further comprising a holding configurationconfigured to undergo distortion when fitting into the setting, thedistortion lockingly holding the respective mounting to the setting.

According to a ninth aspect of the present invention there is provided amethod of mounting a grooved gemstone to a setting comprising:

pressing said gemstone into a mounting to locate grooves of saidgemstone into protrusions of said mounting, and

inserting said mounting into said setting.

According to a tenth aspect of the present invention there is provided amounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting, themounting having a first end with extensions to receive the gemstone andprotrusions extending inwardly from said extensions to fit withinrespective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, the mountingfurther comprising a holding configuration to insert said mounting intoa location in said setting.

According to an eleventh aspect of the present invention there isprovided a method of making jewelry using false gemstones made ofmaterial weaker than a gemstone, the method comprising:

mounting said false gemstone to a setting by:

-   -   providing a setting having a mounting space,    -   providing a mounting, the mounting having arms and protrusions        at a distal end of said arms to fit into grooves of said false        gemstone,    -   pressing said mounting into said mounting space, said pressing        causing contouring on said mounting space to press said arms        inwardly to lock said protrusions into said grooves, thereby        mounting said false gemstone via inward pressure on a body of        said false gemstone and not relying on structural resilience of        said false gemstone.

According to a twelfth aspect of the present embodiments there isprovided an item of jewelry comprising a setting, a plurality ofmountings for mounting gemstones and a plurality of gemstones mounted onsaid plurality of mountings and invisibly mounted on said setting,wherein said setting forms a non-planar surface comprising a curvaturein at least one dimension.

According to a thirteenth aspect of the present invention there isprovided an item of jewelry comprising a setting, a plurality ofmountings for mounting gemstones and a plurality of gemstones mounted onsaid plurality of mountings and invisibly mounted on said setting,wherein said setting forms a plane having an area of at least twentysquare centimeters.

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and/or scientific terms usedherein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinaryskill in the art to which the invention pertains. Although methods andmaterials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used inthe practice or testing of embodiments of the invention, exemplarymethods and/or materials are described below. In case of conflict, thepatent specification, including definitions, will control. In addition,the materials, methods, and examples are illustrative only and are notintended to be necessarily limiting.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Some embodiments of the invention are herein described, by way ofexample only, with reference to the accompanying drawings. With specificreference now to the drawings in detail, it is stressed that theparticulars shown are by way of example and for purposes of illustrativediscussion of embodiments of the invention. In this regard, thedescription taken with the drawings makes apparent to those skilled inthe art how embodiments of the invention may be practiced.

In the drawings:

FIG. 1A is a simplified schematic diagram showing a mounting accordingto an embodiment of the present invention holding a gemstone;

FIG. 1B is a variation of the mounting of FIG. 1A;

FIGS. 2A-2C are views from different angles of a setting designed withspaces to accept mountings according to FIG. 1;

FIG. 3A is a simplified diagram showing a mounting according to FIG. 1being fixed into position in the setting of FIG. 2 using a deformationtool;

FIG. 3B is a simplified diagram showing a mounting according to FIG. 1Bbeing fixed into position in the setting of FIG. 2 using anotherdeformation tool;

FIG. 4 is a simplified diagram showing use of the deformation tool ofFIG. 3 from a direct angle;

FIG. 5 is a simplified diagram showing a row of mounting according to anembodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 6 is simplified diagram showing insertion of a gemstone onto amounting according to the present embodiments;

FIG. 7 is a simplified diagram showing a row of three mounted gemstonesfollowing the insertion procedure of FIG. 6;

FIGS. 8A-8D are simplified diagrams illustrating an embodiment of amounting in which a breakable end is used to straighten a concave baseto fix the mounting into the setting;

FIGS. 9A-9F are a series of simplified diagrams illustrating the use ofa removable tool to straighten a concave base to fix the mounting intothe setting;

FIG. 10 is a simplified perspective view of a further mounting accordingto the present embodiments in which a screw-end is provided to the baseto allow for an external threaded tool to distort the base to clasp thegemstone;

FIG. 11 is a side view of the mounting of FIG. 10;

FIGS. 12A-12F illustrate succeeding stages in mounting and clasping agemstone into the mounting of FIG. 10;

FIG. 13 is a three-dimensional schematic diagram showing a flat versionof the invisible setting of the present embodiments, in which numeroussmall gemstones are mounted in a matrix;

FIG. 14 is a three-dimensional schematic diagram showing a version ofthe invisible setting of the present embodiments in which a matrix isprovided that is similar to that of FIG. 13, except that the matrix iscurved in the longitudinal direction to give a wave effect;

FIG. 15 is a three-dimensional schematic diagram showing a version ofthe invisible setting of the present embodiments in which a two layermatrix setting for a ring has a convex shape;

FIG. 16 shows a version of the invisible setting of the presentembodiments where the matrix provides a concave shape for a ring;

FIG. 17 shows a version of the invisible setting of the presentembodiments with a curve shaped setting on the upper part of a ring; and

FIG. 18 is a version of the invisible setting of the present embodimentswhich provides a spherical-shaped mounting on a chain.

DESCRIPTION OF SPECIFIC EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION

The present invention, in some embodiments thereof, relates to aninvisible setting for diamonds and other precious stones in jewelry, andmethods and tools for effecting such settings. In the presentembodiments a mounting is used to hold the gemstone within the setting,so that the process of fixing the gemstone in position is made easierand so that distortions to the setting over time do not affect theintegrity of the way in which the gemstone is held.

In the present disclosure the term “gemstone” is used to refer not onlyto diamonds and other precious and semiprecious stones, but also toglass, metals, plastic and anything else that can be made into adecorative mounting for jewelry and like products.

As will be explained in greater detail below, the mounting relies lessthan traditional settings on the strength of the stone to retain thestone in place, and thus the invisible setting with the mounting of thepresent embodiments is suitable for flawed gemstones and for weakermaterials altogether.

Top grade gemstones consist of alexandrites, aquamarines, diamonds,emeralds, garnet, opals, pearls, rubies, sapphires, spinets and topaz.More generally, there are over 130 types of minerals that have been usedas gemstones.

These include, but not limited to:

Agate

Alexandrite and other varieties of chrysoberyl

Andalusite

Axinite

Benitoite

Aquamarine and other varieties of beryl

Bixbite (Red beryl)

Cassiterite

Chrysocolla

Chrysoprase

Clinohumite

Iolite

Danburite

Diamond

Diopside

Dioptase

Dumortierite

Emerald

Feldspar (moonstone)

Garnet

Hambergite

Hematite

Jade—jadeite and nephrite

Jasper

Kornerupine

Kunzite

Lapis lazuli

Malachite

Natural moissanite

Obsidian

Olivine (Peridot)

Opal (Girasol)

Pyrite

Quartz and its varieties:

-   -   Agate    -   Amethyst (cardinal gem)    -   Citrine    -   Chalcedony (bloodstone)    -   Onyx    -   Tiger's-eye

Ruby

Sapphire dark blue

Spinel

Sugilite

Tanzanite and other varieties of zoisite

Topaz

Turquoise

Tourmaline

Variscite

Zeolite (Thomsonite), and

Zircon

In addition, artificial or synthetic materials that have been used asgems include:

High-lead glass

Synthetic corundum

Synthetic cubic zirconia

Synthetic spinel

Synthetic moissanite

Synthetic alexandrite

Synthetic opal

Synthetic turquoise

Synthetic diamond

Synthetic quartz

Synthetic beryl

cristinite

YAG yttrium aluminium garnet

Organic materials may also be used as gems, and examples include:

Amber

Ammonite—from fossils formed from the shells of extinct ammonites.

Bone

Coral

Ivory

Jet (lignite)

Nacre (Mother of pearl) and

Pearl.

The settings and mountings may be made of injection molded or printed orother plastic, titanium, gold, silver, stainless steel, ceramic, brass,pewter, glass, and base metals in general.

In addition to jewelry, the embodiments may be applied to mounting ofgemstones as defined above, on fashion bags, leather bags, purses andwallets, directly on clothing and accessories, including spectacles, onwhite goods, on personal articles such as watches, pens, mobiletelephones and mobile phone covers, etc., on other consumer articles andalso to mounting on vehicles or parts of vehicles, such as the steeringand dashboard on luxury cars, and onto buildings and parts of buildings.Thus precious or semi-precious stones and crystals may be set into thewalls of foyers or bathrooms and the like.

Before explaining at least one embodiment of the invention in detail, itis to be understood that the invention is not necessarily limited in itsapplication to the details of construction and the arrangement of thecomponents and/or methods set forth in the following description and/orillustrated in the drawings and/or the Examples. The invention iscapable of other embodiments or of being practiced or carried out invarious ways.

Referring now to the drawings, FIG. 1A shows a mounting 10 which holds agrooved gemstone 12 invisibly to a setting such as a ring or other itemof jewelry. The mounting 10 has a first end 14 designed to hold thegemstone 12 at groove 16 using protrusions 18 of two oppositely facingarms 20 and 22. The protrusions 18 extend inwardly from the arms 20 and22 to fit the groove. The mounting 10 further has a holder 24 forholding the mounting to the setting.

FIG. 1B likewise has a mounting for fitting gemstones. However a gap 26in the base of the mounting provides snap-on functionality for themounting, as will be described in greater detail below.

Reference is now made to FIGS. 2A to 2C, which show different views of asetting 30 having spaces 32 for placing the gemstones in the mountings.Some of the spaces are shown filled with already mounted gemstones 34.

FIG. 2A shows a perspective view of the setting. FIG. 2B shows a viewfrom above and FIG. 2C shows a view from below. As seen in FIG. 2C thespaces 32 extend to openings 36 in the underside of the setting throughwhich the holders 24 may poke through during the mounting process, aswill be explained hereinbelow.

Reference is now made to FIG. 3, which shows in greater detail how themounting 10 with the gemstone 12 held in its arms is mounted within oneof spaces 32 to the setting 30. The mounting is snapped into the space32 so that holder 24 extends outwardly from opening 36. The walls ofholder 24 are then deformed outwardly around the opening. Thedeformation has the effect of jamming the mounting into the space, butalso presses the walls of the mounting against the convex contouring 42of the space so that the convex contouring levers the arms 20 and 22 topress into grooves 16 of the gemstone.

That is to say, the setting comprises spaces for holding mountings. Eachspace is shaped with a bulge or contoured, to hold the mounting and atthe same time deform the mounting to close the arms into the gemstonegroove. In other words, the space is contoured to lock the mounting intothe setting and at the same time push the arms or upper parts of themountings inwardly to lock onto the gemstone groove when the setting ispushed downwardly into the space, as discussed.

Returning to FIG. 1B, and the mounting, and more specifically, theholder 24, is designed to be deformed when pulled into the setting. Theholder 24 is hollow, and has an open slit 26 down one side. Furthermorethe cylindrical outer walls 27 of the holder are relatively thin alongtheir length in between base 28 and the meeting point 29 with the arms.The relatively thin walls combined with the open slit provide arelatively weakened portion of the mounting to provide for controlleddeformation, allowing a specifically desired deformation to bepreferentially caused by the mounting.

As shown in FIG. 3A, the deformation may be carried out by a bevelingtool 44 or the like. Beveling of the base 28 of the holder 24, asdiscussed, causes the arms 20 and 22 to close over the gemstone and holdthe gemstone more strongly via the groove.

FIG. 3B shows the use of an equivalent tool for the embodiment of FIG.1B. In the embodiment of FIG. 1B the base is flexible because of gap 26which is constructed therein. Tool 46 comprises a head 47 which isinserted into the base of the mounting to force the two sides of themounting apart and thus allow the gemstone to be snapped into place.

FIG. 4 is the same as FIG. 3 but viewed directly from the front so thatthe deformation of the base 28 of the holder 24 about the opening 36 ismore clearly shown.

FIG. 5 shows a mounting 50 with a gemstone being placed downwardly intoa space in the setting 52 prior to the deformation shown in FIG. 4. Inuse, a setting shaped as explained above with spaces for the mountings,is used. A mounting 50 having arms and protrusions at a distal end ofthe arms, is fitted with a gemstone and is pressed in the direction ofarrow 54 when the arms fit into the gemstone grooves as explained above.Simultaneous pressing of the gemstone into the mounting and pushing themounting into the space provides a single click action in which thepressure causes the contouring on the setting to distort the mounting tosimultaneously catch the mounting into the space and press the armsinwardly to lock the protrusions into the gemstone grooves.

Typically gemstones are mounted in rows and columns Three adjacentmountings are shown in the figure, and once the rows and columns ofgemstones are filled, the mounting is invisible to the outside observer.

Reference is now made to FIG. 6, which illustrates a gemstone 60 beingplaced in a mounting 62. Typically the gemstone may simply be placedface down on a surface and then the mounting is pressed down onto thegemstone allowing the protrusions 64 at the end of the arms 66 to snapinto grooves 68.

FIG. 7 shows three mounted gemstones in a row.

Reference is now made to FIGS. 8A-8D, which are simplified diagrams of athird embodiment of the mounting in which the holder includes abreak-off portion to carry out the deformation. Mounting 80, holdinggemstone 81, comprises a pole portion 82 at the end of holder 84. Thearm arrangement for holding the gemstone is unchanged and the holder 84works in the same way to bias the arms to hold the gemstone tighterfollowing deformation. As shown in FIG. 8A the mounting is pressed intothe space in the setting via contouring 86 on the setting which deformsthe mounting as it passes. The mounting 80 is snapped into the settingto the position shown in FIG. 8B and then the pole portion 82 is pulledto deform the holder further by flattening floor 88, initially concave,of the holder 82. The pole portion is broken off during the deformationto leave a clean setting and a holder with a flattened floor 88.

The breakable portion 82 may be designed to be broken off using a shapedmounting tool (not shown).

In either of the above embodiments, the mounting may simultaneouslyclose over the grooved gemstone and deform into the setting with asingle application of force.

FIG. 8C illustrates the gemstone in situ on the mounting after thebreakable portion 82 has been removed.

Reference is now made to FIGS. 9A-9E, which show stages in the use of avariation of the embodiment of FIG. 8.

In the variation of FIGS. 9A to 9E breakable pole portion 82 is replacedby a removable tool. Removable tool 90 comprises a cylindrical poleportion 92 and a flanged end 94. The cylindrical pole portion 92 fitsinto a correspondingly shaped hole 96 in concave base portion 98 ofmounting 100. FIG. 9A shows the pole over the hole prior to insertionand FIG. 9B shows the pole after insertion with the flanged end pulledagainst the hole 96. As shown in FIG. 9B the mounting is inverted forinsertion of the stone 101 and then as shown in FIG. 9C the mountingwith the tool and stone are inserted into the setting 102 with the toolextending through hole 104 in the setting. As shown in FIG. 9D themounting is pressed into position in the setting and then the tool ispulled from below. The pull from below releases the tool from themounting, at the same time flattening the concavity of the base portion98 and levering the arms to push inward on the gemstone.

FIG. 9F shows the gemstone in situ with the tool prior to tool removal.

Reference is now made to FIG. 10, which is a simplified perspective viewof a further mounting 110 according to the present embodiments. In FIG.10, a screw-end 112 is provided to the base 114 of mounting 110 to allowfor an external threaded tool to distort the base 114 to clasp thegemstone 116.

FIG. 11 is a side view of the mounting of FIG. 10.

FIGS. 12A-12F illustrate succeeding stages in mounting and clasping agemstone into the mounting of FIG. 10. FIG. 12A shows the holder pressedover the inverted gemstone to snap fit the gemstone from above. FIG. 12Bshows the gemstone snapped into the mounting following the snap-fitoperation of FIG. 12A.

In FIG. 12C the mounting is lowered in the direction of arrow 118 ontosetting 120. In FIG. 12D threaded tool 122 is lined up with thescrew-end 112 and in FIG. 12E the screw-end is threaded into thethreaded tool to distort base 114 and reinforce the holding of thegemstone by the mounting.

Finally in FIG. 12F the threaded tool is removed from the mounting,which mounting is now firmly held in the setting.

The different embodiments listed herein can be used with automation,such as CNC devices and robot arms. The embodiments of FIGS. 9A to 9Fand FIGS. 10-12F are particularly suitable for use with a robot arm.

Reference is now made to FIG. 13, which shows a flat or planar version130 of the invisible setting of the present embodiments, in whichnumerous small gemstones are mounted in a matrix. A protruding rim 132surrounding the matrix around the edge guards the matrix from damage,say from a fall.

FIG. 14 shows a version 140 of the invisible setting of the presentembodiments in which a matrix is provided that is similar to that ofFIG. 13, except that the matrix is curved in the longitudinal directionto give a wave effect. A surrounding protruding rim 142 is shown. Thusthe surface of the matrix is non-planar.

More generally, the surface may be convex, concave, curved in onedimension, curved in two dimensions or even curved in three dimensions,as in the following examples.

FIG. 15 shows a version 150 of the invisible setting of the presentembodiments in which a two layer matrix setting for a ring has a convexshape. Different color stones are shown in each layer 152, 154respectively, although it will be appreciated that different colors maybe mixed in the same layer, or different layers may share the samecolors. Likewise the stones may be of different material, thus rubiesand sapphires etc. Each layer has its own separate surrounding rim, 156,158.

FIG. 16 shows a version 160 of the invisible setting of the presentembodiments where the matrix provides a concave shape for a ring. Again,a surrounding rim 162 is provided.

FIG. 17 shows a version 170 of the invisible setting of the presentembodiments with a curve shaped setting on the upper part of a ring.

FIG. 18 is a version 180 of the invisible setting of the presentembodiments which provides a spherical-shaped mounting on a chain.

Embodiments of the present invention may be used with flawed gemstones,and particularly where the flaws in the gemstones are in the region ofthe grooves cut in the gemstones to carry out the invisible mounting.Generally the flaws are inclusions within the gemstone which weaken thecrystal structure and render it mechanically weaker. With prior artmountings gemstones in which the flaws are in the proximity of thegrooves are not used simply because the mechanical pressures of theinvisible mounting are too much to bear for the lessened mechanicalstrength of the flaw. However in the present embodiments the substantialmechanical force is directed inwards and thus the support is provided bythe body of the gemstone. Hence for the first time it is possible to usegemstones having flaws around the periphery and particularly near thegrooves, for invisible mounting.

As well as flawed gemstones, it is also possible, for the same reason,to use weaker kinds of gemstone, as well as glass and other non-gemstonegrade material. Thus, the present embodiments may be used to makerealistic jewelry with invisible settings using glass and like materialand false gemstones or soft gemstones.

The settings themselves may be constructed of any kind of metal,including both hard metals and soft metals, and including steel,platinum, gold, silver and brass.

The settings and mountings may alternatively be made of plastic. Certainproducts to which the embodiments are applied are generally made ofplastic, such as mobile phone covers. Other products may requireprototypes, and prototype settings may be made of plastic and thencoated with metal as necessary.

In the case of plastic products and prototypes, a design may be preparedusing a CAD package. The CAD design may then be used as the input to a3D printer to create the setting. The setting may be coated with gold,silver, or other metals as appropriate and the mountings and gemstonesmay be inserted using any of the methods discussed above. The prototypemay then be inspected by the customer, and a mass-production toolprepared as necessary.

It is expected that during the life of a patent maturing from thisapplication many relevant pulse shaping and symbol decoding technologieswill be developed and the scope of the corresponding terms in thepresent description are intended to include all such new technologies apriori.

The terms “comprises”, “comprising”, “includes”, “including”, “having”and their conjugates mean “including but not limited to”.

The term “consisting of” means “including and limited to”.

As used herein, the singular form “a”, “an” and “the” include pluralreferences unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.

It is appreciated that certain features of the invention, which are, forclarity, described in the context of separate embodiments, may also beprovided in combination in a single embodiment. Conversely, variousfeatures of the invention, which are, for brevity, described in thecontext of a single embodiment, may also be provided separately or inany suitable subcombination or as suitable in any other describedembodiment of the invention. Certain features described in the contextof various embodiments are not to be considered essential features ofthose embodiments, unless the embodiment is inoperative without thoseelements.

Although the invention has been described in conjunction with specificembodiments thereof, it is evident that many alternatives, modificationsand variations will be apparent to those skilled in the art.Accordingly, it is intended to embrace all such alternatives,modifications and variations that fall within the spirit and broad scopeof the appended claims.

All publications, patents and patent applications mentioned in thisspecification are herein incorporated in their entirety by referenceinto the specification, to the same extent as if each individualpublication, patent or patent application was specifically andindividually indicated to be incorporated herein by reference. Inaddition, citation or identification of any reference in thisapplication shall not be construed as an admission that such referenceis available as prior art to the present invention. To the extent thatsection headings are used, they should not be construed as necessarilylimiting.

1. A mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting, themounting having a first end with extensions to receive the gemstone andprotrusions extending inwardly from said extensions to fit withinrespective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, the mountingfurther comprising a holding configuration for lockingly holding saidmounting to said setting, wherein the mounting is configured to bedeformed upon pulling inwardly about contouring on said setting, saiddeformation being such as to lever said extensions to push saidprotrusion inwardly into said groove. 2-4. (canceled)
 5. The mounting ofclaim 1, wherein said holding configuration is configured to protrude atleast partially from a base part of said setting, said holdingconfiguration comprising a breakable portion that deforms said mountingprior to being broken away therefrom, to catch said mounting into saidsetting and to lever said protrusions into said groove.
 6. The mountingof claim 5, wherein said breakable portion is designed to be broken offusing a shaped mounting tool.
 7. The mounting of claim 1, comprising aweakened portion for preferential deformation when being mounted.
 8. Themounting of claim 7, configured to simultaneously close over saidgrooved gemstone and deform into said setting with a single applicationof force.
 9. The mounting of claim 1, comprising a concave base portionbeing flattenable to provide said deformation.
 10. The mounting of claim9, wherein said flattening is provided by a breakable portion attachedto said base portion.
 11. The mounting of claim 10, wherein saidflattening is provided by a tool inserted via a hole into said baseportion.
 12. The mounting of claim 1, wherein said extensions areresilient.
 13. A setting for gemstones comprising a plurality oflocations for holding respective gemstone mountings, each location beingshaped to close upper protrusions of said mounting into a groove of agrooved gemstone to hold said gemstone to said setting, said settingbeing contoured to push upper parts of respective mountings inwardly tolock onto said groove when said setting is pushed downwardly into saidlocation. 14-16. (canceled)
 17. The setting claim 13, comprising a softmetal.
 18. The setting of claim 13, further comprising a protruding rimextending around the setting. 19-20. (canceled)
 21. A method of mountinga grooved gemstone to a setting comprising: providing a setting having amounting location, providing a mounting, the mounting having arms andprotrusions at a distal end of said arms to fit into grooves of saidgrooved gemstone, pressing said mounting into said mounting location,said pressing causing contouring on said mounting location to press saidarms inwardly to lock said protrusions into said grooves, therebymounting said gemstone.
 22. The method of claim 21, carried out by arobot arm. 23-30. (canceled)
 31. The setting of claim 13, configured toform an item of jewelry, said item of jewelry comprising said settingand a plurality of mountings, each mounting for holding a groovedgemstone invisibly to said setting, respective mountings having a firstend with extensions to receive a respective gemstone and protrusionsextending inwardly from said extensions to fit within correspondingmounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, each mounting furthercomprising a holding configuration for lockingly holding said respectivemounting to said setting, wherein said holding configuration isconfigured to undergo distortion when fitting into said setting, saiddistortion for said lockingly holding said respective mounting to saidsetting. 32-35. (canceled)
 36. The method of claim 21, wherein: saidinward pressing of said arms to lock said protrusions into said grooves,locks said gemstone via inward pressure on a body of said gemstone andnot relying on structural resilience of said gemstone, thereby allowingmounting of a false gemstone.
 37. The setting configured to form an itemof jewelry according to claim 31, comprising a plurality of mountingsfor mounting gemstones and a plurality of gemstones mounted on saidplurality of mountings and invisibly mounted on said setting, whereinsaid setting forms a non-planar surface comprising a curvature in atleast one dimension. 38-39. (canceled)